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Every Friday, without fail, my husband makes pizza. Not the frozen kind. Not even the storebought-dough-but-homemade-sauce kind. The everything-from-scratch kind. Having long since perfected the dough (48-hour rise) and the sauce (blitzed San Marzano tomatoes, salt, and little else), his last frontier was the cooking mechanism. Sam used to crank our apartment’s oven up to 500 degrees Fahrenheit, then upgraded to an Ooni when we got a backyard. Three years on, he’s been itching for a new challenge, cooking with fire (he’s an Aries). And it just so happened, Gozney recently launched Gen 2 of its restaurant-grade Dome and Dome XL.
Sam was practically salivating over its wood, gas, and charcoal fuel options; I liked that it is by far the most aesthetically-pleasing pizza oven on the market. (I credit the ceramic exterior coating, which gives it a homier feel and also happens to be corrosion-resistant.) Gozney kindly agreed to send us the Dome XL in Off Black to test out, along with a host of accessories, including the wood-fire control kit and a stand cover.
Over the course of seven Pizza Fridays, I’ve drilled Sam about his likes and dislikes, the surprises and quirks. Because, admittedly, even the standard Dome Gen 2 is a big investment—you want to make this purchase armed with all the nitty-gritty details. Here, in Sam’s own words, is his honest review.
At 161 Pounds, It’s Heavy
The delivery was pretty straightforward; the oven comes in a big box on a palette. I moved the car out of the driveway when the delivery people arrived so they could leave it as close to the house as possible. You definitely need at least two strong people to lift it; our neighbor helped me bring it to the backyard. The oven does come with straps on the sides, which makes it a lot easier. (Editor’s note: Gozney suggests four people.)
Setup Is Seamless
Everything was in clear locations: the flue pieces, the burner guard and duct grate, and the thermometer components. The assembly was self-explanatory; I’d say it took about 15 to 20 minutes. For the thermometer display, you’ll need to charge the battery pack first. They send you two, though, so you’ll have an extra. (Editor’s note: To me, aesthetics are just as important as functionality. I was pleasantly surprised upon opening the box that the finish has some depth IRL—it’s more charcoal than straight-up black. And the oven also comes in a very chic Bone color that’s worth considering.)
Not All Stands Are Created Equal
Make sure you have a sturdy stand. I’m still using our old Ooni stand, but I’m considering buying the Gozney one because the Dome Gen 2 XL takes up almost every inch of surface area. (Editor’s note: The official Gozney recommendation is two inches of room all the way around the base.) Gozney’s stand is also better-looking. It’s not just basic steel; everything is powder-coated black and there are two fold-down acacia wood shelves.
Don’t Sleep On the Cover
Gozney sells both short and long oven covers. They gave us the longer one, which protects the stand as well—nice because that’s where I store the firewood for it. Compared to the Ooni cover, Gozney’s is more substantial; nothing is getting through the PVC-coated fabric.
It Heats Up Faster Than You’d Think
I was originally concerned that the Dome Gen 2 XL would be slow to heat up because it’s so large, but it was very quick. (Editor’s note: It’s 90-percent bigger than Gozney’s original design.) On my first try, I used propane gas and in 23 minutes, the temperature went from 285 to 790 degrees—and it was a very cold day. That’s on par with the Ooni. I usually aim for 900 degrees, but I’m cooking in the winter and the oven has a wide opening, so it’s hard to get it that high right now. Even so, it still cooks a really good pizza. Once you get the oven to your preferred temperature, it maintains heat well. The crust is always crispy and airy.
You Can Cook Up to Three Pizzas at Once
Obviously, most pizza ovens can only fit one pizza. So far, in the Gozney, I have done two pizzas at once. One of the good things about this oven is that there are clear temperature zones—a pizza in the front left corner is going to cook much faster than one in the back right because it’s hotter. That lets you focus on one at a time. (Editor’s note: Sam has yet to try cooking three pizzas simultaneously, but there’s definitely space for it. Our photographer also roasted vegetables in the Dome Gen 2 XL for this photo shoot with no complaints.)
Get a Few Sizes of Firewood
I’ve cooked with wood twice so far. I watched a how-to video first. You stack pieces of wood on the included rack, then light it with a fire starter (I used one I already had). Since Gozney also sent us the wood-fire control kit, I used that on boost mode to get the fire hotter. It’s essentially a small, battery-powered fan that blows air onto the wood at a steady rate. I found I was constantly putting on new pieces of Gozney’s hardwood to keep it going. I read on Reddit that bigger blocks were better for that, so I’ve since bought some from Cutting Edge Firewood. I’ll still use the Gozney hardwood, but just when I’m starting the fire.
Cooking With Wood Is a Learning Curve
It’s been harder to control the temperature than when I’m using propane. The top of the pizza will be cooked perfectly, and the bottom isn’t. But I’ve been cooking on days with a lot of wind, so take that with a grain of salt. My plan for next time is to get the oven to 825 or 850 degrees, then keep it there for 20 minutes before I put a pizza in so the stone is a more consistent temperature. For cleanup, you have to be careful—wait until the oven is totally cool. There will be a lot of soot in the opening, so be conscious of what you are wearing. Then just use a brush to sweep the ashes into a pail.
If You Buy Any Tools, Make It the Peel
It’s very easy to get pizza on and off of the acacia wood launching peel; it doesn’t stick as much as others I’ve had. The only drawback is that it’s definitely a bit heavier, so you’ll need to use two hands. They also gave us a grated metal peel, which I use to take pizza out of the oven. We have an Amazon version, but I prefer the Gozney. It’s very thin, which makes it easy to get underneath the pizza, and lightweight, so you feel in control. For the turning peel, though, I prefer my old one. Gozney’s feels slippery underneath the pizza; it wasn’t as easy for me to maneuver it.
The XL Is for People Who Love to Host
If I was having a big group of people over, I think cooking multiple pizzas at once would cut my cooking time in half. But I’m typically only making pizza for me, Lindsey, and our daughter, so I haven’t noticed a material difference.
It’s Worth the Money If You’re a Pizza Nerd
I would definitely recommend the Dome Gen 2, standard or XL, if you are passionate about cooking and have experience making pizza at home. It’s a beautiful pizza oven, it’s fun to experiment with fuel sources, and I’ve found it easy to use—but that’s in part because I’ve been doing this for three years. It can be very frustrating when you mess up in the beginning, so you don’t want to spend a lot on an oven before you’re certain this hobby is for you. For novices, I’d start with a smaller model, like the Arc or the Tread, and work your way up.
